Rock Climbing – Lower Devil’s Canyon

You know it is a good climbing day when it hurts to grip your steering wheel on the way home.  Yesterday was amazing!  Great climbing, awesome friends, wonderful weather and beautiful rock.

Jeff - Eyes of the World 5.11a

Jeff – Eyes of the World 5.11a

We decided to climb at Lower Devil’s canyon this weekend.  Lower Devil’s is located east of Phoenix between Superior and Globe and has some of the best climbing in the Queen Creek area.   Mountain Project has some great info on the area here.  Unfortunately it is bit difficult to get to and since they halted mining the road has gotten significantly worse.  I highly recommend at minimum a high clearance vehicle and really think a 4×4 is necessary.

We climbed in the Glitter Box area and then around the corner at Hidden Splendor.  After a while most climbing pictures start to look the same, so I’ve only included a few of my favorite shots here.  If you want to see more, I’ve posted them to Facebook here.

11-13 - Lower Devil's Canyon - 140

Kelly – Damsels in Distress – 5.10 b/c in the Glitter Box area of Lower Devil’s Canyon

This is Kelly on lead climbing Damsels in Distress a 5.10b/c.  Just prior to this shot he took a 20-30 foot fall.  He climbed to his bolt and ran out of steam.  He had has quick draw in and everything and just couldn’t hold it.  It was a picture perfect clean fall, but no pictorial evidence.

Amy - Eyes of the World 5.11 b/c - Glitter Box - Lower Devil's Canyon

Amy – Eyes of the World 5.11 b/c – Glitter Box – Lower Devil’s Canyon

My climbing has been pretty sporadic lately, so I knew I would be flailing on this route.  I managed to make it past the 1st crux point, but hit the really hard stuff and completely failed miserably.  We are going back in December, so my goal is to make this clean mostly clean.  Actually to be honest, I just want to make it to the top.

For any climbers interested in this route, to avoid a top belay you will either need a 70 meter rope or have enough webbing to set your ropes about 20 feet down from your anchor.  The anchor point on top can be reached by climbing the 5.7 trad route on the west side of the spire.  Jeff and Kelly promised anyone who managed to lead it dinner and drinks.  It is a crazy difficult route.  You will need to set your own anchor on top.

Russ - Eyes of the World 5.11 b/c - Glitter Box - Lower Devil's Canyon

Russ – Eyes of the World 5.11 b/c – Glitter Box – Lower Devil’s Canyon

I needed a picture of someone doing something upside down for a photo contest I wanted to enter.  We did a few experimental poses, but it is surprisingly hard to hang upside down on a climbing rope.  Thanks to Russ for being such a good sport.

Russ - Upside down climbing at Lower Devil's Canyon

Russ – Upside down climbing at Lower Devil’s Canyon

Thanks for everyone for an awesome climbing day.  More photo’s can be located here.


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